OLKHON ISLAND AND LAKE BAIKAL

The ‘Pearl of Siberia’ Lake Baikal is the world’s deepest lake and contains a fifth of the world’s unfrozen, fresh water. Formed by rifting tectonic plates, it will eventually become the world’s fifth ocean, splitting the continent of Asia.

I spent 2 days in the charming Siberian village on Olkhon Island on Lake Baikal. The views of the crystal clear blue water of the banana shaped lake surrounding the island made me wish I had more time to spend there. The small, sleepy village full of traditional Siberian, wooden houses had such a calm and peaceful atmosphere, a perfect place to break my trans-Siberian journey and just relax for a bit. Wood being the most practical and the most easily available houses, the whole village is built of small wooden houses, some with beautiful wooden lace trimmings. Only now, after having been here and seeing the small villages dotted around the flat Siberian landscape do I realize that wood is probably the best material for the houses to help withstand the cold Siberian winters.

There was no running water or a sewage system on Olkhon island, and as I’m told in most Siberian villages. Holes in the ground in little wooden huts act as toilets and the ingeniously simply built tanks which let water out when you push the plug up. With all our luxurious bathrooms it’s so easy to forget that people over the world live with the most simplest and basic of amenities. It was great, simple living but it was also great to come back to a clean and western bathroom in Irkutsk again and take a long hot shower. I suppose, I’m just used to the luxuries a bit too much.

This region is also the region of the Buryat people. A traditional tribe that along with the Christian traditions still believes in Shamanism. It was fascinating to see along the way the poles and trees with ribbons all over them…signs of shamanic practice. Also from the room at the hostel we got a beautiful view of the bay and the lake and the one of the holiest rock, Shaman rock, of the Buryat people.

Unfortunately being a veggie, I could not try the Omul fish (salmon like fish that can only be found in Lake Baikal) and I guess 2 days was too short a time to see the nerpa seals (freshwater seals found only in lake Baikal).

The lake is beautiful and an extremely popular destination for local Russian holidays. I think I’d tell anyone coming to Russia, save all your hard earned cash that you would spend in Moscow (Moscow being just as expensive as London) and instead take a flight straight to Irkutsk and then the bus to Lake Baikal. It’s a truly beautiful place and I’m hoping I can make it back here again one winter when the lake is all frozen.