Cambodia

I entered Cambodia via the Mekong. Three days on a range of boats from small canoes to big luxurious boats .....tricky but the best way I have entered a country so far. We stopped along a few small towns, saw the hustle and bustle of the floating markets and local industries like where they made coconut candy and rice paper. We had breakfast on the river as the women rowed her canoe from boat to boat making a living selling delicious Vietnamese coffee and noodle soup. We went through a maze of small mangrove canals and through places where the river was so wide it seemed like a sea. It was fascinating to see how life along the river, with it's gentle pace, works, and how people who live near the river are so completely dependant on it for everything but also use it in the most creative ways to earn a living. The floating fish farms and teh floating markets were just amazing to see. And it seems all along these cultures the women work the hardest. We saw mostly women along the floating markets, rowing their canoes packed with fruits and vegetables. The men also do some of the hard work but apparently once again, they see themselves playing the role of the parent who teaches their child 'culture'.
On the third day we approached the Cambodian border. Leaving Vietnam was just walking past a wooden pole while a man in shorts and Tshirt had a quick glance at your passport. It was hilarious how easy it was. But funnier still was when the boat left us at the Cambodian immigration. We would have to leave the Vietnamese boat and take a Cambodian one. None of us had Visas so we walked into this compound where there were official looking personnel. No sign saying this was the immigration office...and I use the word very loosely. It was a beautiful open bamboo bungalow with hammocks at the sides, palm trees for shade and a view of the river. We saw the sign saying 'Visa here' and for a few minutes wondered whether this scenic location would be where we would actually get our Visa. As I sat across the table from the official...at least this time he had the uniform shirt on even if he was wearing shorts to go with it, I had the view of teh Mekong river infront of me, he checked my Visa form, wrote out the Visa in front of me and stuck it in my passport, I paid him the $20 and that was it. I was officially allowed to enter Cambodia. If only all Visa formalities and offices were this nice.
We got the cambodian boat and as we entered the mekong on the Cambodian side, we immediately noticed the difference. The houses were now distinctly Khmer houses. Beautiful
wooden houses built on very high stilts and with roof decorated in the traditional Khmer tyres. But the biggest difference was seeing all the cows and water buffallos. I was told that Vietnam gets all it's cheap meat from the Cambodian side. And then also along the river spots of orange, monks in their robes hanging out near the river...we were in Cambodia and I was that much closer to seeing Angkor Wat.
It was night time when we arrived to Phnom Pehn and we went for dinner in a local place near the guest house. The atmosphere was just something else. It was what we assume a beer and seafood place. There were tables full of men, and only men, with big jugs of Ancor beer next to each table and all sorts of plates filled with 'delicacies' The atmosphere was one of being jolly and just having a good old time. As we walked in, being the only woman there I first got stared at and then impecable service. The guys were jealous at how I got all my food and drink delivered first and always with a huge smile. Even with it thundering and pouring it down outside, it was just great being in Phnom Pehn.
The next day, I decided to go sight seeing, took a motorbike to the killing fields and it was the first rude awakening to the history of the Cambodians. How could one man, turn so many minds into pure evil and end up killing so many people in the most horrendous of ways. It was just incomprehensible. And after that I walked to the riverside and went to see the Royal Palace. What a contrast to my morning. The palace is architecturally Khmer style and absolutely beautiful. The grounds are really well maintained and walking around I got an insight into just how royal life would have been in there.
And then I couldn't wait any longer, I had to go see Angkor, I have been waiting so long to see it.
So the next day we took the bust to Siem Reap. Got there by lunchtime so we could explore the town a little. A much smaller and nicer town. Quieter and mainly in exsistence on the tourist trail because it is a perfect base for going into Angkor.
A 4:00 am rise the next morning meant that we would see the sun rise over Angkor wat.